Undervalued, but not for long

When putting together a distinctive wine program, a time-tested approach has always been to sprinkle in some wines from famous producers that pop out for being exceptional quality and value. These "hidden gems" have become much harder to find lately, but that opportunity still exists with Piemonte's favorite every-day red, Dolcetto.

Dolcetto has quietly been undergoing a renaissance over the past few decades. The best producers have mastered Dolcetto's finicky farming and vinification requirements, delivering a style that many compare to Beaujolais. You can see "premiumization" coming with the wave of new DOCs and DOCGs.

At this point, it's the producer--not the appellation--that sells the Dolcetto. For one thing, the Barolo producers who make a Dolcetto almost always do so under the broad, nebulous Dolcetto d'Alba DOC. For another thing, a good Dolcetto probably depends more on the producer than the appellation, because it's so tricky to make. And why wouldn't you pick a marquee name for your Dolcetto, while you still can find some good value?

Among them, Azelia's single-vineyard Dolcetto d'Alba Bricco dell'Oriolo is hard to beat. Old vines, high elevation, and small production deliver a fresh, concentrated style reminiscent of Cru Beaujolais. And like Azelia's Barolos, the wine is organically farmed and vinified with native yeasts.

So here’s the sizzle: we’re talking about a single vineyard cru wine from old vines in a prime hillside location made by one of the top producers in the region in an approachable fruit forward style. For $20 retail.