Home Field Advantage

They certainly didn't need to--but some of the best Barolo producers decided to get behind Arneis in the 1970s, finding that its charms outweighed the difficult task of growing it.

At the time, the native Piemontese variety was on the brink of extinction as producers threw up their hands with its finicky nature. But Vietti saw the potential and doubled down on Arneis, discovering that it thrived in the neighboring Roero region, where sandy soils enhance the acidity and perfume.

Since then Roero has held its edge on Arneis. It's the only appellation where Arneis has attained DOCG status. The marquee Barolo producers who make an Arneis, such as Giacosa, Brovia, and of course Vietti, source from Roero.

If the big Barolo names give Roero Arneis more visibility, it's local producers who have the advantage in getting it just right. Arneis drops acidity quickly after ripening so the timing of harvest is crucial, and favors the winemakers who live in the vineyards.

This is certainly true for Roero-based Matteo Correggia, who has made Arneis a specialty. Giovanni Correggia sees harvest as the key to capturing the lushness of Arneis without losing the snappy crispness that makes the wine so appealing. Like his father Matteo did, Giovanni picks the vineyard in two passes. The first is a bit on the early side to keep the freshness in the wine and the second is a week later when the fruit is at its peak ripeness. The picks are then co-fermented to get the best of both.

The Correggia family grows Arneis on their prime hillside estate, where the vineyards are blanketed with idyllic marine soils of the ancient submerged seabeds. Farming is organic.

The result is a distinctive fresh style of Arneis that entices another sip. The wine opens with ripe apple and melon fruit, leading to a lingering salty briny finish. It's classically paired with Vitello Tonato, and I also recommend it withchicken caesar salad, turkey clubs, and grilled cheese sandwiches.