Azelia’s “normale” is anything but normal
As Barolo has skyrocketed to world-wide fame over the past 20 years, much of the attention has been given to 'Burgundization' of the region and the focus on the many single vineyard MGAs, with designates like Brunate, Bussia, Vigna Rionda, Cannubi commanding a kingly price. In tastings the Barolo ‘classico’ (aka 'normale') is often skipped over while chasing the rare crus, overlooking the fact that the traditional wines of Barolo were purposefully blended from various sites to add complexity to the wine.
But many wineries still take great pride in their Barolo ‘normale’ bottling, much as Champagne houses would consider their NV wine a calling-card. When they are well-bred, these traditional 'normale' Barolos are terrific values and it’s the savvy wine drinker who seeks them out.
Azelia Barolo 'normale' 2020 is one of them. This 100-year-old winery is now in its 4th and 5th generation of fastidious wine making, the kind of vigneron who is always in the vineyard in pursuit of ever-higher quality.
Azelia’s Barolo ‘normale’ is a blend of two communes—Serralunga, with its high central spine branching off like fishbones that reveal steep hillside vineyards to prime southern exposure, is known for its classic Barolo profile with added depth and intensity; and Castiglione Falletto, the Goldlilocks of Barolo with classically fruity, floral, with spicy notes. And within these communes, Azelia’s blend comes from not just specific crus–including Bricco Fiasco, Bricco Voghera and Cerretta, but the tops of these specific crus, where grapes are bathed in generous sunlight.
Oh, and then there’s vine age—Azelia’s Barolo ‘normale’ vines average 55 years, among the oldest in Barolo. This is not only due to the inclusion of 135-year old vines from Bricco Fiasco and 95-year old vines from Bricco Voghera, but also by excluding any vines younger than 25 years from the Barolo 'normale'. And all of Azelia's vines, every day for a century, have been farmed organically.
Having put in all that work growing the grapes, Azelia seeks a transparent style in their winemaking choices. The wine is vinified with native yeasts in custom-made steel tanks that gently submerge the cap under the juice, to extracting color and tannins without the harsh action of punchdowns or aeration of pump-overs. Aging is then in neutral, unvarnished barrels. The result is a wine with great depth and age-worthiness that is also approachable in its youth.
Upon tasting, it is as classic a Barolo as you can find. All of the benchmark flavors of sour cherries, roses, truffle and herbs are there with powerful yet approachable structure. It’s a wine you’d want to receive in a blind tasting. Considering the fruit sources, attentive innovative winemaking and reputation of Azelia it’s very hard to find a better bottle in the DOCG class. And, with average Barolo ‘normale’ prices moving north of $60, Azelia’s $50 retail is still a relative value.