Luxurious Brunello Riserva

When one thinks of the pinnacle of Sangiovese, Brunello di Montalcino immediately comes to mind. Over the past century it has gone from a quiet foresting community to one of the world’s most collectible wine regions.

Unlike neighboring Chianti Classico, Montalcino has resisted the temptation to segment into smaller appellations; instead, focusing its promotional efforts building the singular "Brunello" brand.

But beneath this unified image, there are several unofficial "zones" of Montalcino with different aspects, elevations and soils that produce a range of versions and styles. There's an advantage to considering these zones when picking the perfect bottle.

The recent string of 5-star vintages has favored the high-elevation area North of the town of Montalcino, particularly the highly-touted, very warm 2015 vintage. It is this high-elevation "zone," the apex being Montosoli, where the 2015s found their most balanced expression. Brunello "normale" from this heralded vintage sold very quickly and now we are treated to the cream of the vintage, the Riservas.

One such treat is 2015 Cerbaia Brunello di Montalcino Riserva. Cerbaia is located on the slopes of the Montosoli cru, some of Montalcino’s most hallowed ground, neighboring Livio Sassetti, Il Marroneto and Valdicava.

The Cerbaia estate consists of 12 hectares with just over 4hA planted, all in the Brunello appellation. The vineyard is farmed by second generation, Elena Pellegrini, using organic methods and minimal intervention. From this tiny slice of the hillside, the oldest 1hA vines are set aside for the Riserva, yielding just 2000 bottles and produced only in top ‘5-star’ vintages. 

The Riserva, by law, is required to age an extra year before release. For many producers, this means amped up oak in the guise of "luxury" along with elevated prices.

Not so Cerbaia. Elena Pellegrini makes her Brunello Riserva according to traditional methods (read large neutral barrels) so the wine remains a pure expression of Sangiovese. This results in a wine that favors elegance over power. And the wine is one of a dwindling few that retails for under a c-note.

The Cerbaia Brunello Riserva 2015 shows a finesse that evokes Burgundy but clearly Sangiovese with morello cherry, herbs and dried leaves, with considerable concentration and firm tannins. It is clearly built with the structure to last years in the cellar.

93 RobertParker

93 James Suckling

"A sultry, velvety and dark expression with plum, rich cherry and blackberry preserves. Cured tobacco, campfire ash and mahogany also appear." -RP